The Days I Spent in London (UK Fulbright Orientation, Part 1!)

This past week was a whirlwind. Another one of those weeks where you do so much you begin to say things like "I only arrived yesterday? I swear I've been here a week." Packing so much into so little time leaves no time for processing. Once again, I'm just going to post a pictorial blog because A) I want to get something posted, and B) I'm stealing wifi at Starbucks, so I want to keep this short. So...enjoy the pics and commentary.

ARRIVAL: Took the train from Sheffield to London St. Pancras for £19, and walked from King's Cross down Grey's Street to Wren Street to the Francis Gardener House at University College London. This is a dorm room at UCL. I was connected to the internet by a cable. I showered in the toilet. It was like a nice version of camping.

 

DAY 1: UK Fulbright Orientation

After coffee and tea, we found our seats and watched this video: The Difference between the United Kingdom, Great Britain, and England. Five minutes and you'll be more enlightened.

We were supposed to introduce ourselves. It took the entire group a little over two hours. We had to 

stand in front and talk about our research, a fun fact, and what we were looking forward to about living in the UK. I was so nervous, so I snapped a picture of everybody when I got on stage. I'm sad that it's blurry. :( I told everyone in the room they were writers, and that's what I was here to study. I also talked about riding on an elevator with Tom Brokaw, and mentioned that so far my favorite part of living in the UK is being called love. Although the other day, I was also called me duck, which is another term of endearment in the north, and I plan to use it quite often to me loves back home. Quack. Quack.

 Becca (Leeds) and Steve (Sheffield) telling stories about moonshine and Oprah. Well, Becca actually talked about singing on her morning walks, but I like her family history with Tennessee Moonshine. Steve challenged his class in Chicago to give up one thing a month, like television, internet, etc. Oprah heard of it, a representative got in touch, and then nothing came of it, except she challenged her viewers to do this as well.


After introductions, lunch was sandwiches ordered in from Pret a Manger. I ate egg salad. This is the FACULTY LOUNGE at University of Notre Dame London where we lounged for lunch. Yes, that's a baby grand piano to the left. Would love to show you my faculty lounge at RHS. We have a handy paper shredder AND a Scantron. The microwaves are cleaned out occasionally, and there are plenty of science experiments in the fridge.

 Me. Outside the door of University of Notre Dame in London.

At lunch I slipped outside for a quick walk around Trafalgar Square, where this street performer was entertaining adults and children with bubbles in front of the National Gallery.

The afternoon was spent at an Opportunities Fair. Here Fulbright Scholars are listening to each booth give a spiel about why we should join their society or why we might be interested in their work in the UK. Once those were finished, we visited individually at each booth. We were given free memberships to various UK organizations, and I joined The Royal Society of the Arts, The Royal Oak Foundation, The English Speaking Union. I got information from The Prince's Trust, specifically about a teaching organization it operates, the US Embassy, who told me NOT to get arrested (such pressure!), Gresham College Public Lectures (officially the oldest society there--and they all bragged on how old they were), and the Institute of Ideas, who works with youth debates and asks for Fulbright Scholars to judge student work. I plan to do this in October. :) 

DAY 2 was spent at Two Temple place...and this was the entrance. 

The morning was spent with Fulbright Alumni and Ambassador Matthew Barzun. He's less than two years older than me. 

Lunch on Day 2 was at Zizzi's on the Strand, made by these happy people below. I had pizza with spinach and egg.

I'm going to end here for this post because I'm tired of being in Starbucks. And I'm tired of being on the computer. The next few days were fascinating...I assure you. And I will try to post again, soon.

The Day I Am Trying to Catch You Up

This post has actually been titled differently each day I've sat down to write it: The Day I Realized I've Been Here a Week, The Day I Bought Towels and Sheets, The Day I Toured Sheffield Hallam University, The Day I Lost My Mascara, The Day I Made Tacos, The Day I Got a Blockbuster Video Membership Card (yes, it's true folks) so, you see, it's just been an exciting few days since I've last posted. So much has been going on that I've not had a second to stop and write. So now, I've got one hour before Starbucks closes (yes, I'm at Starbucks because it's free wifi and I feel like a nut in a pub with my computer out stealing wifi while everyone else enjoys a pint and good company.)

So today I wake up to rock bands and singers and loudspeakers coming through my flat window. I live next to Sheffield's Botanical Gardens, and I knew something was coming from there. I had read in the Sheffield Telegraph about the upcoming Arts in the Park, but didn't clue in that it was today for some reason. After a quick breakfast, I packed my camera, computer, water bottle, and notebook and headed up my street instead of down. If I haven't complained about it yet, I will now. Sheffield is built on "seven hills." Fortunately, my mile and half walk into Sheffield Hallam is fairly level (and I'm now understanding the bus routes a little better), but most of the time I'm walking up and down hills to get where I'm going. Scratch that, most of the time I'm walking uphill both ways.

So I get to the top of the hill (not far, really) and see what I understand the locals to call "Teddy." This is King Edward VII School. I will be contacting them for some observations (which I've learned I need to call them "sit ins" because observation strikes a chord of "evaluation", which is SOOOO true, even in America.) Heck, maybe I'll just ask for a tour! I will be glad when my approval to get into these schools as a visitor gets back to me, which could be another week or so.

Do you think students at Teddy are more excited than our students to learn because they go to school in such a fascinating, old, gloriously English (okay, "Roman") structure? Ha. Yeah, I don't either.

 So, walking on...down Clarkehouse Road, I also run across Sheffield High School, established in 1878. Is this the school for you?





I finally made it to the Botanical Gardens where the Arts in the Park was happening. Here are a few pictures:

There were local/area artists set up inside painting, drawing, and chatting with people. I spoke with at least four, and got some great tips on local things to see and pubs to visit. Including the "crooked spire", Bolsover Castle, and the Thursday morning market in Chestershire, about a 20-minute train ride away. My "to do" list keeps growing.

This artist took a picture of what she's drawing because she couldn't bring physically bring in the flowers, but she wanted specifically to draw them because her daughter-in-law sent them to her. I love people.

My lunch, from a local farmer. Roasted pork sandwich with stuffing (think Thanksgiving,) and apple sauce.

I never stopped to read the signs for this area, but I was drawn to it over and over again. That's because it's their "North American Prairie Land" tribute. Which, as they put it, is now covered in corn. So true. But this area did remind me of our gardens in southern Mo.

Okay...it's taken me an hour just to upload what few pics I have and now it's closing time at Starbucks. I'm headed out to meet my Fulbright buddy, Steve, who gave me these options for the night: eat at a new restaurant, see a movie, or stay in and wash my hair (me only, which I need to do, but I'll opt for dinner.) Enjoy...I'll try to post another tomorrow.

The Day I Got Frustrated

I am somewhere between here..................

AND here.....................

Successes today include waking up, getting up, eating breakfast (free), and crossing off a couple of really minor things from my list (buy glue stick, umbrella, shampoo, mouthwash, dental floss, and sim cards.) All that took me to four different stores and six hours. Oh, lunch was in the middle. And afternoon coffee where I had my first breakdown of "what-in-the-world-am-I-doing-here-someone-buy-me-a-ticket-home-!"

< Why the glue stick? Travel tip alert: if you're still old-school and like to journal, keep receipts, ticket stubs, and random Dove chocolate wrappers that say "Feel Good about Yourself", then a glue stick is the journaler's best friend. >

The good news about today is that Sheffield people are just super, super helpful and friendly. Liam, at the Phones4You store, set up my phone and iPad like a professional. Oh, wait. He is. I also learned that Sheffield, Newcastle, and Glasgow are homes to the nicest people in the U.K.

The bad news about today is that I'm going through my first wave of culture shock. Total helplessness. (And this is where growth happens, I know, yada, yada, yada. I don't wanna hear it.)

Cultural difference: When one is already down and out a little, and the store clerk asks "you okay?" it's probably not wise to fall into her arms and whimper, "NO. No I'm not okay, can you find me a place to live?! Hug me!" Instead, you say, "can you show me where the mouthwash is?" because what she's really asking is "can I help you, in this store, at this moment?" and when you ask for mouthwash in return, she will definitely respond with "Oh yes Love, follow me. We've got several brands on sale at the moment.What else can I do you for?"

Sniff. sniff.

Here's a little pictorial of my day, because I'm too mentally drained to write coherently anymore.

Breakfast of champions. Pork and beans. This automatically prompted corn-on-the-cob for lunch. The toast was sure tasty though, and I sneaked a few Nutella packs to my room. Cheese packs = awesome.

My view at breakfast. Anybody want to visit?

The first of six leasing agencies that must have this recording: "Sorry, we just can't help you at the moment. Have you tried any websites or private lenders?" Yes. I'm one of those people who try everything over and over and over again before asking for help. So now I'm asking. Help me.

Lunch at Nando's. Super good. Super friendly service. The place was so packed I had to wait for a table...at lunch! I ate the portobello wrap with pineapple and medium piri piri hot sauce. I asked the wonderfully kind servers if they could also help me find a place to rent since they were so good at helping me choose my lunch. "Unfortunately, not good with that one." (When said with a British accent, the word unfortunately never actually makes me feel unfortunate.) :)

I ended up trying all of these sauces. Next time I will go for the extra hot. Most of the meals here are based around rotisserie  chicken. The hot sauce isn't Mexican spicy, but more Indian spicy.

Fail: did not ride public transportation today. Too much of a mental challenge at this point of my day.

Success: opted for a mocha pick-me up at Cafe Nero. This is like a two-for-one: chocolate and coffee.

Accidentally took a picture of myself. Look at all those chins!

When I meant to take a picture of this. All of a sudden, this place feels sooooo big.

Tomorrow will be a better day.

Good news, I'm going to bed before 2:00 a.m.

Also, in other news, I love the staff at this hotel. Good conversationalists. Two nights in a row at the bar ending my night just chatting. Ben, the evening Duty Manager, has schooled me on everything from great pubs in town to why walking is better than driving, to lime and soda (a disgusting looking phosphorous neon drink that many people order) and why sometimes bachelor degrees just aren't worth it. The guy next to me tonight at the bar schooled me on all things California. He's been. A lot. He's got one word for me: tumbleweeds.

I drank water and ate french fries, which are actually called "skinny fries" on the menu. Misleading. Probably responsible for all those chins.

The Day I Arrived

(P.S. (Is it okay to put the post-script before the post?) I think my blog shouldn't be titled "Journey2Learn", but instead "Letters2Home" because currently these entries are just ways my friends and family can experience my experience. You may find them rather boring! :) 

Terminal K: Chicago O'Hare Airport

Education Speak: 
This truly is a journey to learn. I sat next to a young man on my flight from Chicago to Manchester who just finished his A-levels in June in geography, ancient history, and philosophy. He detailed what the last five years for him were like with GCSE's, General Certificate of Secondary Education,  in 12 areas. I want to learn about these in more detail. I will look them up. I'm wondering how long do these exams take? And what happens as a result of these exams? These are questions I want to explore further. A quick read in Wikipedia helped.

From those exams, my seat partner chose four areas to focus on (age 16) for the next year, and then he took his first set of A-levels. The second year he focused on three subjects, I mentioned earlier, and now, after his second A-levels (age 18), he has narrowed down his favorite course of study, geography, and has decided to study at Manchester University in September 2014. He is now in his "gap" year, a year many 18-year-olds take off to work or travel before heading to the university. (We ALL need a gap year. I wish this tradition would come to America, as usual, we are the exception to the rule. If I had my own children, I would institute it. Instead, many of my students say "I'm taking  a year off and going to work first.") He is returning home from a holiday in Florida with his family, who live near Birmingham, and he plans to take a 10-week charity trip to Ecuador to work in conservation areas for the rainforest.  He told me Sheffield Hallam was one of the top universities in the UK, out of 144. He's been researching. :-) He described it as an A-B school, which is the grade you need to make on your A-levels to be accepted to this university.  He chose Manchester bc he likes their Geography department. The university experience will cost him £9000 per year. That's about $13,000.

As the flight began, I started to read Doris Lessing's The Golden Notebook. The first notebook hasn't got me hooked yet, but I'm only on page 35. The introduction though, written by Lessing, is one of the best introductions to a book I have ever read. She wrote it in 1993. She detailed her disgust with the educational system (in the UK and around the world) in allowing us to have students read and evaluate what authorities say about a subject vs what they could learn testing it through their own experiences."Nevermind what professors say, read it for yourself, what do you say?" I was inspired by this.

Changing money...
Safe on the ground, 7:37 am., 1:37 am CST. Surprisingly, everything has been so easy.

Going through customs at the UK Border in Manchester Airport.

The customs agent was super nice, asking me outside of work if I had plans to travel, and then offered a slew of local suggestions. At baggage claim I found the toilet first (got to get used to seeing the word toilet) and then found a cash machine that changed paper bills, which on top of a terrible exchange rate, I also paid £5 for the exchange, getting only 52.50 for my hundred dollar bill. I had to use the cash machine instead of the ATM bc I needed actual coins to get a "trolley" for my luggage, which I could have used my card on, but it was out of service.

My luggage came quickly! In Chicago I was moved to an exit row and the airline steward checked my carry on for me. Nice to not worry about heaving all that research up to the overhead bin. So, that was the first piece that came on the carousel. The next two pieces came quickly afterwards and I loaded up to exit the building. Signs were super easy to follow to the train station, and I kept thinking at any moment I would have to abandon my trolley for a set of stairs, but that never happened. It was a 10-min walk through a covered pathway that led me across a street, up 7 floors on a lift that held 40+ people and their bags, through a terminal, and down one floor to trains. Signs were posted along the way that said, 10 min, 8 min, 4 min, and down. I had pre-purchased my ticket, so all I had to do was slip in my credit card to a machine and print. I made it in 13 minutes...pushing 150+lbs.

I made my way down the lift to the platforms and into the cafeexpressshop. It's a little chilly here right now, maybe 65 or so, and cloudy. My biggest concern now is getting off the train in Sheffield.

My view while waiting for the train at Manchester Airport.

I have a luggage strap, may have to test the bad boy out. I plan to get a taxi to the Holiday Inn express. I can't believe I was actually worried that I could miss the 9:55 train. I made it in plenty of time to catch the 8:55, but I waited it out just to be sure. Wednesday is a good day to travel! Not too crowded.

The Train Ride...
It felt good to ride a train. Although once I was successfully on the train with luggage unloaded, we all had to get off and switch trains and platforms. Fortunately, my trolley was still outside the door. Once I loaded up my bags and made it to the next platform, we all were told to return to the previous platform and train. EighYighYigh! Even the Brits were giggly about this.

I returned to my seat and Ian sat down across from me. If all the British are like Ian, then I will have great help. We talked about everything from rugby people vs football people, hiking in the Pennines, this side vs that side, tipping, Chicago, Missouri caves vs Derbyshire caves, plane delays, breakfast,

My train mate pointing out the Derbyshire peaks.

and northern US vs Southern US accents. His constant questioning and conversation starters kept me awake from Manchester to Sheffield. When I finally told him I would be working at Sheffield HallamUniversity, his eyes nearly popped out of head, "Ooooh, that's a great university." I'm feeling proud and happy that I'll be at an institution that seems very well-respected, even though the city does not seem to impress people. The minute I got off the train, we found a luggage trolley, the lift, and the taxi stand. He left me as if he was worried I wouldn't make it on my own.

We pulled out of the train station, turned right, and voila!   Sheffield Hallam University.

Home Away from Home...
I'm staying at the Holiday Inn Express on Blonk Street. It was only a 4.50 taxi ride, but I paid 2 more pounds for the driver to lug my bags in and out of the car. I know, tipping is not required, b
ut you didn't lift those bags! 

I managed lunch, an egg salad sandwich, packet of crisps, and two bottles of water from the cooler in the hotel lobby. Paid 8.50 for that. Dad thought that was a good deal, until I told him that was about $13. He cringed a little. I still thought it was a GREAT deal. After skyping home, I promptly fell asleep. Hard sleep. I knew I shouldn't, but I just couldn't stay awake. I definitely need to change the time on my computer to GMT. I thought I could handle keeping it at CST, but all it does is make me think about what people at home are doing right now, and keeps me in two time zones rather than one. (Not that I don't want to think about my colleagues or family!) One time zone though is better for me to focus.

I woke up around 4:00 p.m., unpacked a little, showered, and headed downstairs. I was feeling some anxiety about actually going out of the hotel. New place, new faces, new neighborhoods, and sometimes I get it in my mind that when something looks dirty or old, then it must be an unsafe neighborhood, not because the building is 500 years old! :) So, I have to face that fear always when I travel alone, but once I do it, good things come. 

My home away from home before I find a home. The Holiday Inn Express.

The staff at the Holiday Inn Express have been super kind and friendly. The front desk clerk sent me on a 10-minute walk (seems that's the end-all-be-all of distance measurement here) to Leopold Square. I will be going back here, especially this weekend for some jazz music. JAZZ! I said. I asked if it was safe, and he said he walks this route every night going home from work at 11:00 p.m. It gets dark about 7:45, so I wanted to return before then. The walk was all uphill, which reminded me of something Ian (from the train ride) said about Sheffield, "Rome and Sheffield were built on seven hills, and that's where the similarities stop."  I passed KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, and McDonalds on my way to find dinner. I settled at Popolo's because it was next to four other restaurants in the square, and it was packed! No other restaurants had people sitting outside. So, I checked out the menu to see what was the fuss...then I realized it was the equivalent of happy hour. The other restaurants nearby might

What it looked like upon arrival.

need to rethink their late afternoon prices. The service here was great. I ordered the prosciutto e ouvo, which is described like this: prosciutto ham, olives, and mozzarella on a tomato sauce base with a cracked egg." It came by recommendation. I added the salad, which was my favorite! 

The good news is that it was all downhill home. I took a few different streets back just to familiarize myself with the area. I only had the hotel map, which was terrible, but I still made my way by using landmarks. I found the main thoroughfare that houses numerous SHU buildings. Everything looks so close on the maps I've been viewing, but I never realized how close all of this is. My hotel is less than a 3-minute walk up to the university. I made it back to the hotel for a cup of coffee at the hotel bar (I chose a mocha version because I was

What it looks like before bed. hehe.

craving something sweet) and then ended with a soft glass of merlot. I've had a good, make that GREAT, day in Sheffield. 

Tomorrow's agenda...
More walking. Find leasing agents. Find a phone. Ride the tram. Search for a yoga studio. That's probably all I can handle in one day in an unfamiliar city. 





Here are a few others pics of my day: 

prosciutto e ouvo pizza and salad for dinner.

 

Wall of water (on the right) outside the Sheffield Train Station. Look above and to the right--SHU...I didn't even notice it until now!

Some countryside on the train from Manchester to Sheffield. I love the rock walls that divide the fields. Don't you know someone put a lot of hard labor into those!

It's everywhere I am! Tomorrow I might try to find Sheffield University.

Window shopping on the way home from dinner. Looks like some great shopping to be had in this little city. At first I saw a TJ Maxx, but it's TK Maxx instead. Good thing I have one bag that will be empty for the trip home. These reminded me of my colleague Kristin Howard; she would look dynamo in them!! (And be 7feet tall!)

I will be hitting this place up soon. Yay for a little authentic Mexican food in Great Britain! Ben, the night manager on duty tonight, said there are two Mexican restaurants in this town, one local, one a chain. I will try them both. He said, "they are both really good!"

Speaking of Mexican, my last meal in the states. Not authentic, looks kind of gross actually, but oh so good. A mess of a tostada covered in hot sauce, guacamole, and sweet sauce.

All of the luggage in my care for the journey. Red=clothes, shoes; Grey=gifts; blue=research; backpack=cameras/electronics; purse=passport/credit cards.

Just what you think of in England, a clock tower, a red telephone booth, and a black cab (in the distance). Just walking home tonight.

The Day I Left

My app isn't working. So no pictures. So much for technology!

My flight left at 3:20. I spent the last three days in final preparations. This morning I woke up, saluted the sun and finished last minute packing procedures. I even had time for coffee and a pedicure! The last two days of yoga have been overflowing with energy and emotion. I thank my friends Kathy, Angie, and the yogis at Sumits. Please try out that place someday. 

Dad came at 11:00 and after visiting for a bit, we drove to Mexican Villa fora hearty last Springfield meal. "The food you grew up with" is the slogan on the front of the menu, and I know there are haters of the MV reading this, but there is no other truth about this place for me. I've transitioned through the Villa's menu like I've transitioned through life. From French fries and taco salads (with no lettuce or tomato, mind you) as a child to burrito enchilada styles in my college years to vegetarian cheese tostadas and guacamole dip as an adult. I just can't get my fill of white American cheese dip and MV hot sauce. There's a bottle securely stored in my luggage. 

Moving on...and moving out. I thought I was doing so well by packing weeks in advance, but seems I just can't let go and leave things behind. Dad arrives, and I instantly drop 10lbs from the cases with his "you don't need that" and "you should buy this  there." Why yes. Yes I should. It's really nice to have someone help make decisions. That still didn't prevent an overage of nearly 20lbs. The large red one contains clothes and shoes. The grey one, gifts only...200+ items friends, family, and colleagues have given to me to give to my new friends, family (because I always meet family!) and colleagues. Dad said I would have that all given away in less than two weeks. :) The small blue is a carry on and has  jackets and my research: files and books. The backpack is a leftover from a student my very first year of teaching. He never returned to pick it up, so when it finally gives out on me, it's obituary will read "Left behind, but traveled to every country Casey Daugherty did." In 20 years, it's been the one staple travel companion. It's full of electronics and cameras. I like it because there's old school storage for big laptops. :) 

All-in-all there's 173lbs of my life stored neatly in 150+ cubic inches. 

So there you have it. I am off. I will post later this week when I get settled into Sheffield. It's supposed to be sunny and 70 when I arrive. I think this sounds lovely.